There really is something special about driving through gorgeous scenery with nary a car in sight. Even my underpowered Toyota becomes an awesome tool of human engineering, able to push me up mountains and glide me down hills. Arthur's Pass really must be one of the nicer drives in the world. On your way through stunning countryside and multiple mountain ranges, it's hard not to pull over every couple kilometers to snap a picture of some new wonder revealed by a twist in the road.

Early in the drive, I stopped off at the Franz-Joseph glacier, which was much larger than the Fox glacier. Once again, seeing the blue ice was a real treat, but the constant whir of spinning helicopter blades sort of ruins the experience. As soon as one helicopter leaves, another one enters the scene. Even the nearby roaring waterfalls could not drown out the hum.

In the evening, after arriving at the Wilderness Lodge at Arthur's Pass, I went out with a guide, some guests, and a very friendly 12 year old border collie named Tess to examine the area's vegetation. As the guide described the various mosses and ferns, I had eyes only for the dog. Tess and I got along quite well, you'll be happy to hear.